f you’ve been following the blog you know that last week (several weeks ago now .. ooops) I completed my shiplap wall to create a focal point for our electric fireplace and to give it a built in feel. If you’re new to the blog you can find that POST HERE with a complete tutorial on how to create one yourself on a budget. Once my focal point was created (and I’m in love with how it came out!) it was time to focus on filling out the wall. I have had this idea for quite some time and though it wasn’t a hard task but I have been slow on it’s execution because I wanted the center focal point done first. Doing the center first allows me to work out from that focal point, centering my shelves accordingly so they complement the new shiplap without taking away from it.
Things you’ll need for this project: (I am giving sizes based on how I made mine however these pieces are available in various sizes so you can customize to your specific goals and needs.)
BLACK CAST PIPE FITTING, NIPPLE, 3/4″ X 12-INCH LENGTH, 10-PACK
LDR 310 CA-34 CAP, BLACK, 3/4-INCH
BLACK FLOOR FLANGE PIPE FITTING, 3/4 INCH, 10 PACK
laser level (useful but optional)
2×12 cut to fit the width of your shelves, I cut mine to 32″ (or whatever size you prefer) Be sure your wood is NOT warped!
SELF DRILLING DRYWALL / HOLLOW-WALL ANCHOR KIT WITH SCREWS, 100 PIECES ALL TOGETHER, KIT INCLUDES 2 DIFFERENT SIZES, LARGE AND SMALL ANCHORS (PLASTIC)
Paint (optional )
Step One A
If you want to paint your pipe, flange and cap do so the night before you start so it’s dry and ready to go. I wanted a rustic look so I left mine raw. Any spray paint intended for metal will work on these, so if your desire is for a painted look go for it.
Step One B
Do not pre-assemble your shelf bracket pieces aka pipe, nipple and flange. It’s much easier to assemble them after the flanges are attached to the wall. First determine how you want your shelves spaced and the locations for each assembled nipple pipe bracket. Locate studs using your stud finder and see if they are in alignment with the spacing you have selected for your shelf nipple brackets. If you happen to have a stud in the location where one of the flange parts will mount to the wall then use it. On my wall I ended up with one stud available per shelf, you’ll be using the wall anchor kit to anchor the flanges to the wall where there are no studs available. (*Just an fyi once you find a stud they are typically 16″ or 24″ apart center to center. Most construction is 16″ apart on all exterior walls, closets and such tend to go the 24″ span. )
Deciding spacing for the shelving is pretty much open to how you want them to look. You could stagger them, line them up as exact matches (this is what I did) or create unique spacing between each open shelf area based on what you plan to display on the shelves. For my purposes I measured out 8″ from each side of where my shiplap framing stopped and marked that for my first flange set. I had a stud 8″ out on both sides of my shiplap framing so I just screwed my first flange directly into the stud at 8″. If you don’t have a stud in your location you’ll want to use a wall anchor, just mark a circle inside your flange screw hole and screw the anchor in there. (why do I have a million that’s what she said jokes spinning through my brain while I’m tying this?)
Step Two Adding in second flange
Measure over to where the next flange will go and put a tiny mark on your wall noting the distance. Note: Measuring for my shelves I decided I wanted a 4″ shelf overhang on each side of my pipe so I spaced my flanges at 23″ apart. (that measurement is center screw to center screw on the flange, remember that the nipple pipe goes in the center of that flange so be sure to measure from the center screw once you have your first one wall mounted into your stud or wall anchor. Now that you’ve measured over to your tiny mark you’ll take your level and second shelf flange and use both to determine the height of where your second flange will go, move it up or down (while keeping the center screw hole even with your 23″ mark) the wall until you see the level is perfectly straight across, once you find that sweet spot go ahead and drill into your stud or wall anchor. (this is actually a spaced photo from my family room to show the step because I forgot the capture it on this project, family room project will be blogged soon!)
Finishing up the job
Now that you have one shelf in you’ll repeat these steps until all your shelves are hung. Note: My shiplap framing was perfectly level so measuring over 8″ from the edge of my framing gave me perfectly even shelving on both sides. If you live in and older home or your start measure point isn’t even then investing in a laser level might be useful to you. I have this one and I love it for all sorts of projects.
Stain paint and details